by Bushviper » Sun Aug 09, 2009 8:46 am
WW the part of the grabstick that moves down usually has an "overbite" which I just dont like. I usually make another "arm" and then ensure it closes flush with the bottom part. I then grind away a groove in the front of the bottom part and make a gap so that any small debris does not cause the jaws to lock.
Putting the high density foam on the jaws is a good idea but often this degrades after a few days in the bush, so spare foam and glue is a must. I tried silicon rubber but this is useless when it gets wet. On large snakes I felt the gentle giant did not give me the confidence I had with the "Pillstrom" type grabsticks. I am sure if you only use one set of tongs (a lot) you will become more confident.
Some day the guys who actually use these instruments the most will design the "Ultimate Grabstick" and then it will be too expensive in any case. There is always a trade off between weight, field maintenance, function, durability and cost.
I feel the field grab stick should be like a Zippo Lighter, AK47 or a Landrover. Rough, durable, field stripable and simple in design. You should be able to fix it with a Leatherman or even just a rock and a piece of wire. It should do the job and bring a smile to your face when you know you are in a sticky situation and need help.
However there is nothing wrong with the modern sport car version either. This one is far more comfortable and has many hidden features. It is light and goes fast but cannot tow a caravan. This would be a grabstick made of a type of plastic which has ratchets and a hydraulic pressure trigger in it. The jaws would be able to be adjusted depending on the size snake involved and could even be interchangable depending on scalation and bulk of specimen. The handle would be like Pachmyar grips of a target pistol and shaped for different hand sizes.
One day when I am big and have nothing to do I might design a few and see how they work.
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