Care sheet for G.rosea (Chilean Rose)

Care sheet for G.rosea (Chilean Rose)

Postby Dangaboy » Tue Feb 28, 2006 9:25 am

Here is the caresheet Stan Schultz (author of The Tarantula Keeper's Guide) sent me for a G.rosea. Enjoy!

The tarantula you refer to is Grammostola rosea. While everybody has their own favorite variations for the common name, the official American Arachnological Society Committee on Common Names name for them is "Chilean rose." Capital "Chilean," lower case "rose." The plural is "roses," not "rosies" although I have to admit that I sometimes use the latter. There is no such thing as a "rose hair" or "rosehair." Tarantulas have bristles, not hair. (All right, "picky picky picky." :-)

CAVEATS:
We don't know a lot about these tarantulas because few if any people have ever actually gone to Chile to see how they live and brought back believable reports. (Great vacation idea, no? Take *LOTS* of pictures! You wouldn't need someone to carry your bags, would you?) What's presented here seems to fit with what is known about them, but a lot of it is conjecture, not fact. It should be taken as interim wisdom until confirmed or corrected by new data.

COLOR/MARKINGS:
For the most part, immatures, males and females are colored much alike but with the males being somewhat more vibrant. They have no distinct or distinguishing markings.

This species is a bit unusual among tarantulas in that is occurs naturally in at least three different color forms. These all possess a more or less uniform dark gray to black undercoat. One color form is a more or less uniform, drab, dark gray (sometimes called "muddy" or "grubby") with at most only a sprinkling of lighter beige or pinkish hairs. Another possesses a uniformly dense, pretty, light pink outer coat. The last is a beautifully intense coppery form. The adult males of this last form are spectacular!

For a while, enthusiasts thought each color form was a different species, even calling the copper colored form G. cala, the Chilean flame tarantula. However, over the last several years all of the several color forms have been reported to arise from the same eggsac, proving that these are all merely variants of the same species.

SIZE:
A medium sized tarantula. Mature females will have a body length of up to about 7.5 centimetres (three inches) and a leg span of about fifteen centimetres (six inches). While the males' body is smaller the leg
spans remain the same. Because of the numbers being exported from Chile the average size of the individuals currently found in the market is usually smaller. It is presumed that, given time and proper care, these will reach respectable sizes.

NATIVE HABITAT:
Roses come from the borders of the Atacama Desert in Northern Chile at least as far south as Santiago. The Atacama can be one of the harshest environments on the planet! There are parts of it that have never had rain in recorded history. The temperatures there may reach 135 F (57 C) or higher in Summer. They may experience light frosts in Winter. We think that the areas where roses are found aren't quite so severe. They've been reported from semi-desert to scrub forest areas. Apparently their principle source of water in nature is from the food they eat and fogs that drift in from the Pacific Ocean once in a while.

LIFE SPAN:
Roses have not been bred in captivity often enough or kept in captivity long enough for us to make anything more than a wild guess at maximum life spans. They've only been imported in any numbers for possibly 10 years, certainly less than 20. During that time they have only been bred in captivity a handful of times.

Because the wild caught ones don't come with birth certificates we don't know how old they are when we get them. They may live anywhere from 10 minutes or less to 10 years or more in our care, and I wouldn't be a bit surprised to hear of someone who's had one since 1980 or so that's still going strong. The few captive raised ones have had nowhere near enough time to mature, live a full life span and die of old age, so we have no handle on a maximum lifespan in captivity.

As an educated guess we can bracket the probable limits of their lifespans at more than 10 years and less than 100 years. Reasonable guesses might be 20 to 40 years. Beyond that, all bets are off.

TEMPERATURE AND LIGHT:
Being desert animals, one might assume that these tarantulas require excessively high temperatures. Not so. They're extremely sturdy and resilient creatures and will do quite well at normal room
temperatures. For the most part, unless you have antifreeze in place of blood, any temperature at which you're comfortable will suit the tarantula just fine. If you have a choice, 74 to 85 F (23 to 29 C) is ideal.

Be careful about trying to artificially raise the cage's temperature in the belief that the rose needs higher temperatures. There are 2 problems with supplying extra heat to a tarantula's cage. First, without a major engineering effort the heat is largely uncontrollable. If you happen to experience a particularly hot day and accidentally leave the cage heater on, you could easily come home to a strong smell of well cooked tarantula.

Second, artificial heat sources are strong desicators. They dry the cage out extremely rapidly and to a very harsh degree. Roses are accustomed to living in a desert, but even they have limits to what they can tolerate.

The bottom line here is that maybe a lower temperature is better than an artificial heat source unless you can engineer a fool proof, fail safe heater. Be extremely careful. You've been warned!

NO SUNLIGHT! In fact, avoid all bright lights, but make sure that the tarantula can easily tell the difference between day and night. (See below.)
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Postby Dangaboy » Tue Feb 28, 2006 9:25 am

SUBSTRATE:
Aquarium sand/gravel is generally frowned on by the tarantula keeping community although we have kept many species for long periods of time on it with few or no problems. The most telling argument is that it's too abrasive. In defense of aquarium gravel it must be pointed out that tarantulas customarily live in soil that may have a large admixture of gravel of all qualities in it, and these tarantulas seem to do quite well in spite of it. We suspect that the bias against aquarium gravel is merely just that: a bias. In fact it probably seldom makes a difference.

Garden soil, on the other hand, is a strict no-no! It almost surely contains a heavy load of environmenticides from your and your neighbors' finest efforts to control bugs and weeds. The bugs and weeds have had generations to develop resistances to them. The tarantula hasn't. You'll merely kill your spider.

The most commonly used substrates are potting soil and horticultural vermiculite and the debate rages on endlessly over which is better. Both have their advantages and their disadvantages. Recently some other substrates have come on the market for reptiles and have been used by tarantula keepers with good results. But they haven't been used long enough that I'd recommend them to a newbie.

If you use potting soil, get the cheapest kind you can find. It should be peat based, not composted bark or other lumber byproducts. It should not have any additives (like fertilizers) except perhaps perlite (little round, crisp white balls). The small amount of perlite normally added is irrelevant, not a necessity, and is usually not harmful.

If you use potting soil, start with about 2/3 of a package and add about 1 quart (1 liter) of room temperature tap water per 4 quarts (4 liters) of potting soil. Mix it well. Grab a handful and squeeze it as hard as you can without breaking bones in your hand. When you open your hand, if the potting soil retains the shape of the inside of your fist quite well, you're about finished. If it easily falls apart, add a little more water, mix and test again. If it's so wet that you can squeeze water out, add more dry potting soil. (That's why I specified starting with only 2/3 of the package.) Don't become pathologically obsessed with the amount of moisture in the potting soil, there's a wide margin for error and it's all
going to dry up in a few days anyway.

Now pack the potting soil into a pad on the bottom of the tarantula's cage. Pack it quite solidly. In the end you want a pad that's about 3 centimetres (an inch or slightly more) thick. Install a water dish with
the obligatory rock or slate chip and add one tarantula. Don't try to feed it for several days or a week to give it a chance to get used to its new home before it's stampeded by a herd of wild crickets.

Vermiculite is even easier to use. Use only horticultural vermiculite from a garden shop, not insulation grade vermiculite. We suspect the insulation grade to be toxic and it won't absorb water at all. Moisten it slightly and dump about a 3 centimetre (an inch or slightly more) layer in the bottom of the cage. Tamp it as well as you can. (But don't expect miracles. The stuff is pretty fluffy.) The biggest complaint with vermiculite is that many otherwise terrestrial tarantulas hate vermiculite. When this is the case they will spend inordinate amounts of time (days, sometimes weeks) hanging from the cage's sides or top, seldom if ever coming down to earth (or vermiculite) unless forced to by fatigue, thirst or starvation. Even then they will very soon cover the vermiculite with a dense layer of silk to separate themselves from it. If this is the case with yours, change to potting soil in spite of all the
recommendations for vermiculite.

With both vermiculite and potting soil, the moisture will evaporate in a few days. This is good. Roses are desert creatures and excessive humidity is not appreciated. They will learn to get all the moisture they need from the water dish. They'll also get a lot from their food. Don't even think of misting them with a plant sprayer as some people do. This only annoys the tarantula.

After you've had a couple of tarantulas for a couple of years you might try one of the newer substrates (Shred-a-Beast or whatever :-) ), but for now stick with the tried and proven.

FEEDING, MOLTING AND THEIR BUSY SCHEDULE:
Chilean roses pose a special problem. If they weren't so hardy they'd make lousy pets. The problem is this: They evolved in the southern hemisphere and their seasons are reversed to ours. (Here I'm assuming that you live in the northern hemisphere as the majority of tarantula keepers do.) And, they seem to have a particularly hard time adjusting to northern hemisphere timetables.

Think of it this way. In the Atacama they experience seasonal fluctuations in temperature, water/humidity availability, day length, and food availability. They use one, some or all of these to entrain their annual cycles, to synchronize their lives with the rest of Mother Nature. Their species evolved in this absolutely predictable waltz of variations. Each individual tarantula has grown up in these conditions.

Then somebody snatches them out their lair and ships them to the other side of the planet. Worse yet, we keep them in a house with thermostatically controlled heat. There goes any temperature clues to let
them readjust to the new time table.

We get up and turn the lights on every morning at 6:30 or 7:00 AM and the house is well lit until we turn the lights off at 10:30 or 11:00 PM. And this never changes regardless of what season of the year it is. We've just removed day length as a clue.

Worse yet, in nature they're preprogrammed to eat as much food as available in preparation for the coming famine season. (There's *ALWAYS* a coming famine season!) During the famine season they may go hungry for several months before food becomes plentiful again, another seasonal clue. In captivity we give them all the food they'll eat and, out of instinct, they eat everything that we throw at them. We overfeed them thinking that they're starved and they don't stop eating until they're obese. Even then the food *STILL* keeps coming! There is no string of light meals followed by a few months of fasting. This destroys any food availability clues completely.

Lastly, in the Atacama, as dry as it is, there are dry seasons and damp seasons. It may not rain often, but from time to time fog banks roll in from the Pacific and generally moisten everything for a few hours to
several days. And, this tends to happen seasonally. In your home its always bone dry, but you always keep a dish of water in the cage. Ooops! There goes another clue.

The result is that this species more than almost any other gets really confused about what season of the year it is. Because we've removed all their clues they don't know when to start eating again once they get too fat and stop. Neither do they know when it should be time to molt. They may go 2 years or more without eating or molting, before they finally pick up the few very subtle clues available to synchronize with the local seasons.

If this happens to your rose you should try to supply the missing clues.
Keep it in a warm place in Summer and a cool place in Winter. Try to keep it in a room where artificial lighting isn't used very much so it can see a normal change in day length. Don't feed it all it will eat when you get it. Four to 6 crickets all at once, repeated *ONLY* every 2 weeks is more than enough. If it stops eating for an extended period of time, don't worry. Offer it a few crickets every 2 or 3 weeks. If it doesn't eat them, remove the crickets after several days and try again two or three weeks later. When it does begin to eat again, give your rose *ONLY* 4 to 6 crickets every 2 weeks regardless of how hungry you think it might be.
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Postby Dangaboy » Tue Feb 28, 2006 9:26 am

HANDLING:
Handling is the other subject that incites riots among tarantula keepers. Should you or shouldn't you? When should you? When shouldn't you? Which ones can be handled? Which can't? And it goes on and on and on...

Read pages 136 through 142 of THE TARANTULA KEEPER'S GUIDE, 2ND EDITION (Barron's Educational Series, Hauppauge, NY) for some pointers, the "dos" and the "don'ts."

About 1 out of every 1,000 roses bites and the bite causes swelling and intense pain for several hours to a day. Nobody has yet lost life or limb over such a bite, however. If your rose begins to rear back and raises its front legs in a threatening posture as you try to pick her up, maybe you should label it a look-but-don't-touch pet or take it back to the pet shop for another one. The other 999 out of 1,000 will make perfect hand pets if you follow the basic rules.

BURROWING (***NEW DATA***):
For a long time enthusiasts were puzzled by roses' apparently unwillingness to burrow in a cage. It was thought that they might be vagabonds in nature, seldom if ever actually living in a formal burrow.
However, recently Dr. G. B. Edwards (Curator: Arachnida & Myriapoda Florida State Collection of Arthropods, FDACS, Division of Plant Industry) on a trip to Santiago Chile, examined Chilean rose tarantulas in large numbers living in burrows some 45 centimetres (18 inches) deep. Now we know: Their apparent reluctance to dig a burrow in captivity is apparently an artifact of being captive, not a "natural" life style.

The general experience in the hobby is that they neither require a burrow nor use one. When given the chance we've seen them use a coconut shell as a place to hide, but all of ours have firmly rejected burrows when they have been offered. This is supported by the experience of many other keepers. Installing a coconut shell or a plastic aquarium plant that drapes over to produce a darkened cave-like space might be appreciated, however. It may decide that's a good place to hide. Otherwise, don't worry
about it.

:-) Yeah, I know I'm pushing my own book, but the whole reason I wrote it was to help people
like you. The royalties don't even pay for the crickets!]

SALES PITCH:
We strongly recommend that you read a good book on tarantulas. You can get copies of the GUIDE, mentioned above, Sam Marshall's TARANTULAS AND OTHER ARACHNIDS and several others at your local public library. The 2 mentioned here are both rated quite highly by the American Tarantula Society. If you like them you can get your own copies from many pet shops, at almost any bookstore by special order, and from amazon.com and barnesandnoble.com and other webstores.


Now, perhaps you can appreciate your little buddy for the marvel that it really is.
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Postby hein » Wed Mar 01, 2006 10:41 pm

Cool thanks !! :)
Stress!! confusion created when one's mind overrides the body's basic desire to choke the living cr@p out of some monkey who really needs it.
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Postby Sean » Thu Mar 02, 2006 10:09 am

thanks dangaboy

that is very informative
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Postby kitten » Wed Apr 04, 2007 3:20 pm

So.. TA doll for the Sticky! ;) I don't know if any of you knew but I am Arachnaphobic, but through the brave coaxing of a friend of mine (ALSO FEERS SPIDERS) I decided I will try hold a chilean Rose at the SOS expo (GREAT EXPO BY THE WAY) I loved it sooooo much that we have now ordered two! A very near and very dear darling friend has a contact that should be getting the cute critters for us. How much do they usually go for?
If it slithers i love it
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Postby T » Wed Apr 04, 2007 10:00 pm

It depends on the size, slings can go for about R100 (if you get it from a private breeder) but adults can be rather pricey depending on where you get it from.
:-)
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Postby kitten » Thu Apr 05, 2007 10:24 am

Thanx T ;)
If it slithers i love it
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Postby Count DRAGula » Sun Mar 23, 2008 6:12 pm

Makes such a difference to know sumthing than not too. Fanx
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Re: Care sheet for G.rosea (Chilean Rose)

Postby Thya Goosen » Sun Apr 05, 2009 7:46 pm

My Rosea is very docile and stays underground. I use peatmoss as substrate and the spider loves to burrow and then nestle in. I have read suggestions that the spider only needs shallow substrate, but from the depth of its burrows this seems incorrect. Mine is a very young juvi and already does 2 cm.

In order to view it when I so wish, I have created a tunnel against the glass of the enclosure. The spider spontaneously nestled in this tunnel and after some interiour decorating, seemed content with this home. The spider does not eat nearly as much as, for instance, a Curly Hair.

It actually stores food in the back of its home in a silk "fridge". I saw this for the first time when a cricket went into the tunnel on its own. The spider actually climbed over the cricket but did not attack it. The next morning I saw the cricket, spun into the back corner of the tunnel, into the silk "fridge". Guess that is how they can stay underground for days, weeks or months.
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Re: Care sheet for G.rosea (Chilean Rose)

Postby rian » Wed Jul 08, 2009 9:15 am

Very informative, thanx. I could not help but smile at the prospect of calling some of our T's "Chilean Rose Bristle" or "Curly Bristle Tarantula"...
...amazing the predictability of stupidity...
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Re: Care sheet for G.rosea (Chilean Rose)

Postby jinxx » Mon Nov 23, 2009 10:33 am

I found this very informative and educating, thank you very much. As i am contemplating buying a Chilean Rose, but i have very little knowledge about keeping an arachnid. We have snakes and geckos and dragons but this will be our first arachnid and we would like to be as informed as possible before impulse buying. I would like to know what to look for when buying one (defects and warning signs) as one would for any other animal. What would the usual pricing be on them aswell (obviously depending on were it is purchased). Are there any special regulations, permits and so on that go along with owning one. We are not buying with intention to breed and i do know that telling the sex is tough when they are still juvies so it will be kind of the luck of the draw unless we wait to be sure of what we getting, but what would the better sex be to buy or is there not much difference?
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Re: Care sheet for G.rosea (Chilean Rose)

Postby Karin » Mon Nov 23, 2009 1:08 pm

jinxx wrote:I found this very informative and educating, thank you very much. As i am contemplating buying a Chilean Rose, but i have very little knowledge about keeping an arachnid. We have snakes and geckos and dragons but this will be our first arachnid and we would like to be as informed as possible before impulse buying. I would like to know what to look for when buying one (defects and warning signs) as one would for any other animal. What would the usual pricing be on them aswell (obviously depending on were it is purchased). Are there any special regulations, permits and so on that go along with owning one. We are not buying with intention to breed and i do know that telling the sex is tough when they are still juvies so it will be kind of the luck of the draw unless we wait to be sure of what we getting, but what would the better sex be to buy or is there not much difference?


Rosies are very Hary Ts, and if you stick to the caresheet above, you can't go wrong. A healthy T obviously has all 8 legs, but even 6 or legs should not be to much of a problem. A healthy female T has a very plump abdomen, a small / shrinkes abdomen could be a sign of a problem. A male's abdomen can sometimes be slightly smaller. Check the T closely for mites, other parasites etc.

As far as permits are concerned - I see you are int he Eastern Cape - I do not know that the laws / rules there are, I do know that you are not allowed to keep Ts in the Western Cape, maybe somebody more clued up on Nat Con In EC can give better guidance. I can only assume that if there are laws i=on Rosies, they will apply to all Ts.

If you do get one, you will not be sorry.
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Re: Care sheet for G.rosea (Chilean Rose)

Postby jinxx » Tue Nov 24, 2009 3:13 pm

Thank you for the advise i will take it into consideration when making my decision. We have been offered chilean rose, red rumps and white kneed. each one being equally stunning creature. What would the going rate be (average price) i could expect to pay for a T. I want to avoid being done in especially as we are first time byers and this is a totally new thing to us. I am aware that the more exotic, colourful etc... the higher the pricing.
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Re: Care sheet for G.rosea (Chilean Rose)

Postby Ice Cold Milk » Tue Nov 24, 2009 4:02 pm

At this time (Nov 2009) -
red rump's are worth about R50/cm legspan,
chilean roses R40/cm legspan,
Giant white knees R70-90/cm legspan.
Tarantulas, scorpions, invertebrates for sale (In South Africa!!):
http://www.SAinverts.com

Always looking for trades, breeding loans, mature males, scorpions and centipedes. PM me!!
Looking for the following bugs! - viewtopic.php?f=9&t=11555
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